Transplanting peonies - when is it better: in the fall after flowering or in the summer. How to transplant peonies in the fall so that in the spring they will delight with abundant flowering

Peony, with its large noble flowers on tall stems, surrounded by lush foliage, enjoys the special love of gardeners. Sooner or later, every grower faces the task of transplanting a peony bush, and then one cannot do without certain knowledge and a competent approach to business. And even those who already consider themselves a dock in caring for a plant do not always know how to transplant peonies correctly, because a peony, like any other garden flower, has its own transplant secrets. Therefore, about everything in order.

Flowers peonies description

Peony is a monotypic representative of the family, numbering about forty species. For the most part they are herbaceous, but there are also tree-like peonies, which are semi-shrubs or shrubs. Almost all modern varieties are descended from medicinal peony and lactiflora peony. Herbaceous peony is a plant up to one meter high with several stems. The large powerful peony root has cone-shaped thickened processes. The peony has an alternate leaf arrangement. Dark green, and sometimes bluish leaves pinnatipartite or trifoliate. Single flowers with a diameter of 15 to 25 cm with five or more petals are white, red, pink, cream and even yellow color. The fruit of the peony is a star-shaped multi-leaf, in which large, dark, shiny peony seeds ripen. The peony blooms in May. Today, breeders are busy creating hybrids herbaceous peonies with trees. The tree-like peony reaches a height of 1.5-2 meters, its leaves are bright green, double-pinnate, there can be from 30 to 70 flowers on one bush at the same time, and each of them reaches a diameter of 20 to 25 cm. The petals of the flowers are corrugated , dense.

There are varieties with a simple, semi-double and double flower shape of crimson, red, white, lilac and pink. The tree-like bush blooms for about two weeks, and if the weather is cool, then longer. Tree-like peonies are attracted to the garden by the fact that they retain their decorative effect even after flowering due to the unusual shape of leaves and fruits. Tree-like peonies are mostly frost-resistant, and if you still have to cover them with spruce branches for the winter, then for two reasons: because of the likelihood of a snowless winter and because of crows pecking out flower buds.

When to transplant peonies

For peonies, autumn planting is preferable. Plants can be transplanted and divided from September to October and even November. However, both too early and too late division is undesirable. With an early transplant, replacement buds may not be sufficiently developed, and with a late transplant, young tender roots can be lost, which begin to develop in September-October, when the soil temperature drops. If it was not possible to transplant a peony bush in the fall, then transplant it in the spring, when the earth is still full of moisture, and the bushes are just emerging from wintering.

In summer, it is generally better not to touch peonies, the roots pulled out of the ground can get sunburned, baked in the sun. and the flower itself will not be easy in the heat. When transplanting, some part of the roots is damaged and he will not have the strength to recover.

Reasons for transplanting peonies

The reason to change the site for your peonies may be the excessive splendor of the bushes. When a plant grows over the years, it begins to interfere with the neighboring inhabitants of the flower bed, it must be planted, rejuvenated or completely transplanted to a new, more free place. A good reason for transplanting can be a long growing season of a plant in the same place. Redevelopment on the site can also cause the movement of peony bushes. For example, if it is planned to grow potatoes or build a gazebo, or dig a well in the former place of their growth. There can be a lot of reasons, most importantly, remember that “moving” is not the most favorite event for peonies.

What peonies are suitable for breeding

Too old peony bushes, which are more than 8 years old, must be destroyed. You need to transplant 4-5-year-old bushes, moreover. Now you need to divide the peony, separate it with a part of the rhizome about 10-15 cm in size, remove small and rotten parts of the roots. It is better to do this with a knife or a sharp wooden wedge. Let's start by dividing into 2-3 parts, and then smaller ones. Ideally, each planting unit (delenka) should have at least 2-3 buds on the root neck, and the root length should be at least 15 cm. two roots. Delenki with 1 regenerating bud can also be planted, but you need to wait longer for them to bloom. Before planting, they can be placed in a vessel with a saturated solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection.

Preparing a site for transplanting peonies

Every plant needs its own "favorite" place. Varietal peonies love light and open areas. Light shading is acceptable during the hot, midday hours. A peony planted in a dense shade will be weak and it will be very difficult to wait for it to bloom. Wild peonies (marin root, milky-flowered peony and Caucasian species) are not so demanding on light. You can plant these plants even under the crowns of trees.

Selected plots of land must be well ventilated, otherwise stagnation of air will provoke the occurrence of fungal diseases. Therefore, do not place peonies near buildings, tall shrubs, trees, which will impede the free circulation of air.

So, in order to transplant peonies in the fall was successful, you need to prepare a hole in advance. She did about a month before the intended landing. It should be 50 cm long and 50 cm deep. Bottom landing pit loosen and enrich with peat or compost. A layer of fertile soil is poured on top. It is manufactured complex fertilizers consisting of superphosphate, bone meal, wood ash, iron sulfate and potassium nitrate. A layer of mineral elements from the soil must be carried out at least half of the planting hole.

Transplanting peonies in autumn

The transplant scheme differs from planting in that the bush must first be dug up and divided into parts. We remind you that you can transplant a flower for the first time no earlier than 4-5 years after planting. Such delenki will grow and bloom better. And if the bush began to bloom worse and get sick more often, after 10-12 years of growth in one place, then it is recommended to move it to a new place.

Spill water before planting peonies near it. The roots of the plant are able to penetrate up to 80-90 cm in depth, while they are quite tender. At a distance of 40-50 cm (about 40 cm - a 4-5-year-old specimen, the older it is, the greater the distance), dig the ground around the bush for about two bayonets, loosen it and try to get it out of the ground with two shovels. Gently wash the rhizomes from the ground with a stream of water. Cut off the aerial part at a height of 4-6 cm, and put it in the shade for 3-4 hours so that the roots soften a little.

Caring for peonies transplanted in the fall

If you properly care for it, then in spring beautiful and lush peonies will bloom in the flower bed or in the garden. Transplantation in the fall - very important aspect. During this period, the plant takes root as much as possible and has more chances to please in the spring. abundant flowering. In the absence of rain, water the bushes, trying with such regularity that the soil does not have time to dry out. It is best to do this not on the leaves, but under the root. In October, you can cut the stems again. In most cases, peonies are not covered for the winter, but in the northern regions they are still sprinkled with a layer of leaves.

Transplanting peonies in the spring

But what to do if the peony root is bought in the spring? Usually, the roots of a plant planted in August begin to grow actively in the spring, when the snow has not yet melted. Therefore, the root should be planted the sooner the better.

You can use a pot or box that will be located on a cold veranda or balcony. Optimum temperature for root germination is +2 degrees. When shoots appear, the plant is provided good lighting and top dressing (until transplanting into the garden on permanent place). The place for planting peonies should be sunny, without the close proximity of trees. If the peony grows in the shade, it will not bloom.

For peonies, soil moisture is important and its good drainage. From excess moisture, the roots begin to hurt and rot. Fertile and loamy soils are best suited, peat soil is not suitable at all. The roots of the plant can reach a meter, so the hole should be dug at least 70 cm deep and the same in diameter. Bushes should be located at a considerable distance from each other, because over time the bushes grow strongly.

The rhizome needs to be transplanted so that the buds are sprinkled with a layer of earth 5-7 cm thick. If planted deeper, the peony will not bloom. After planting or transplanting, the earth is compressed and covered with sawdust or compost a little.

Caring for peonies transplanted in spring

In the first year young plant better not to let it bloom. Flowers are cut off. This is done in order to strengthen root system plants. Fertilize the soil before planting. For the next 3-6 years, peonies do not need additional feeding. You just need to loosen the soil and weed the weeds. There is a pattern of splendor of flowering from watering. Peony loves moisture, but loves it in an original way. If it is well watered all summer, then it will bloom brighter and more powerful only in a year. A peony can put up with a little shade, but never with dry soil.

Peony pests and their control

Each flower is subject to various diseases, some more, some less. Peonies belong to the second. They are not very susceptible to disease. This is a big plus for the plant. The most common disease of peonies is leaf mosaic and gray rot. You can rarely see rust. The peony buds themselves are eaten by bronze beetles, they should be picked by hand every morning. From the diseases listed above, the plants are sprayed. Can one percent Bordeaux liquid or other copper-containing preparations. It is best to spray in the spring, before the buds form. Subsequently, after 10 days, repeat it again. Also, sometimes there is a need to process bushes from harmful ants or beetles. Already in the middle of autumn (in October), peonies need to be cut to ground level. Remove the stems, and pour the rest in the soil with water.

As you can see, you can choose any time to transplant peonies in the garden, and with sufficient care, these beautiful fragrant flowers will bloom perfectly and delight you.

A peony can grow for a long time in the same place. However, every year the bush grows, grows old, and can no longer fully reveal its potential. There is only one way out - transplanting the plant to another place. For this process to be successful, you need to know how and when to transplant peonies.

Most often, peony bushes have to be replanted due to excessive splendor. From year to year, the plant produces new shoots, due to which it grows and increases in volume. This situation leads to the fact that the bush begins to interfere with other inhabitants of the garden, and it itself becomes too thick to fully bloom. But if you divide it into parts and seat it, then you can not only rejuvenate the plant, but also expand your collection.

Often, peonies are transplanted in order to redevelop the site. In this case, remember that “moving” is a real stress for them, so be more responsible in choosing a site.

Also, the reason for transplanting is too long the growing season of the bush in one place. Sometimes, 10–12 years after planting, peonies begin to hurt and give fewer buds, which is explained by soil depletion and addiction to certain conditions. Move on new site and breathe into other conditions new life into the plant and make it grow. T It is only necessary to remember that the first transplantation of pions can be carried out no earlier than after 4-5 years.

Video "Rules for transplanting peonies"

From this video you will learn how to properly transplant peonies in the garden.

Terms and features of the transplant

Basically a transplant flowering plants can be carried out throughout the warm season, but in the case of peonies, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the growing season at certain times of the year.

spring

In the spring, peonies are transplanted only as a whole bush and if necessary (for example, the threat of damage to the bush by rodents or diseases). It is very difficult to meet the landing dates during this period. After the snow melts, the ground is still cold, and the flower may not take root. However, this is the most favorable time for planting, since the root system is still with additional suction roots, and the movement of juices has not begun.

When asked if peonies can be transplanted late spring, any specialist will answer: categorically impossible. If only because during this period the vegetation is actively taking place, and some early varieties even bloom. Plants need to be transplanted before the vegetative process begins, but not before the earth warms up to +7 ° C. In addition, you need to do this with an earthen clod - then the adaptation process will be easier. And remember that with a spring transplant, peonies will bloom only next year.

Summer

Most of the summer, until the last decade of August, it is impossible to transplant peonies. This is due to the fact that just a couple of weeks after the last bud dries up, the plant begins to lay new flower buds that ensure flowering next season. These buds are very fragile and are easily damaged during transplantation, which leads to the death of the bush.

It is permissible to carry out summer transplant at the end of August, when it is no longer so hot, but the autumn rainy season has not yet arrived, preventing successful rooting.

autumn

The beginning and middle of September is the most favorable time for transplanting peonies. The weather is still warm, the vegetation process is almost completed, and the plant will have time to take root in a new place before frost. If the transplant procedure is carried out according to all the rules, by spring the seedling will get stronger and bloom. Also in the fall, adult bushes can be planted by dividing the rhizome.

It is necessary to divide the bush so that each new seedling has 3-4 healthy renewal buds and a bunch of young thin roots (excluding the tuber itself). Leaves before transplantation are cut to a height of 5–7 cm. Rotting roots are shortened to healthy tissue and disinfected.

Please note that the old plant has long adventitious roots (up to 90 cm), so it is better to dig a bush with a pitchfork, not a shovel. The separation of the bush should be carried out no later than the end of September. The readiness of a plant for transplantation can be determined by the leaves that have turned yellow, but have not yet fallen.

How to transplant

Despite their unpretentiousness, peonies are quite sensitive to transplantation. Often, after this procedure, they stop blooming, puzzling the gardener, because the greenery is actively growing, which indicates the successful rooting of the seedling. To prevent this from happening, you need to properly transplant, taking into account the following points:

Choosing a place for planting a bush. The most favorable for a peony is an open sunny area, not shaded by buildings and other vegetation. It is desirable that it be on a hill, since excessive moisture can rot the roots. You also need to consider that the flower loves freedom, so plants with strongly developed roots should not be planted next to it.
Planting depth. In the literature one can read that successful flowering peony buds when planting should be buried in the soil by 2-3 cm (no more). But as experience shows, even with a deeper planting, the bush will bloom, but not the next year. Equally important is the quality of the soil. It is believed that the optimal planting depth for heavy soil is 3–4 cm, for light soil - 5–7 cm. It is under such conditions that the plant will not suffer from cold or heat.
Competent division of the bush. If the rhizome is divided into very small parts (1-2 buds each), then there will be no flowering next year, since the plant will take several years to develop. Therefore, divide the bush so that each part contains 4-5 buds.
Planting hole size. For tall peonies, pits 50–60 cm wide and 70–80 cm deep are needed, for undersized ones - 40–50 cm at a depth of 60–70 cm. If a drainage layer is to be laid, the depth of the pit should be increased by 15 cm.

Planting pits are prepared a few weeks before transplanting. Drainage is laid at the bottom of the pit, part of the earth is mixed with fertilizers, poured back into the pit, and all this is watered with several buckets of water. Abundant watering ensures high-quality subsidence of the soil.

Also remember that when planting, direct contact of the roots with fertilizers should not be allowed.

Mid August - best time in conditions middle lane for dividing, planting and transplanting peonies to a new place. Gardeners who have not transplanted because they did not know how and when to transplant peonies will learn a lot from this article.

Selecting a landing site

Peonies can do without a transplant for several decades, so be careful when choosing a place.

Peonies love the sun and tolerate some shade. Places near buildings are not suitable for them - plants suffer from overheating. Near tall trees and shrubs, they may lack water and food.

A peony can be planted at least a meter from an adult tree (but not under the crown!), If the tree is located from the north or south. The sun, passing through the sky from east to west, illuminates the bush and it develops well.

Bushes that receive direct sunlight only after lunch will not give a quality cut, as the peduncles and the flowers themselves will be deformed. Bushes illuminated during the day, on the contrary, have straight peduncles, bloom profusely. Their flowers have a typical shape and color for the variety.

Pit preparation

Transplanting peonies in the summer begins with the preparation of a planting hole. The pit must be prepared a month before planting so that the soil has time to settle. If the soil settles after planting pions, this will adversely affect their condition.

The roots of peonies grow strongly in depth and width, so dig a capacious planting hole, which they will eventually be able to fully occupy. If the pit is shallow, then the roots will stop growing as soon as they reach a solid horizon, and without a developed root system, the peony will not be able to express itself in all its beauty.

The optimal size of the pit is 70x70 cm (diameter and depth). Pieces are laid at the bottom of the landing pit broken brick or throw out a bucket of sand. On the basis of the soil extracted from the pit, a nutrient substrate is prepared by adding 2 liters of humus or peat, 200 g of phosphate fertilizer and 300 g to it. Higher doses of fertilizer will lead to excessive leaf development and reduce flowering.

The substrate is mixed and spilled with water. Then the pit and the adjacent substrate are left to settle and rest. They will have to return only in a month, in mid-August-September, when the time is right for planting peonies.

What if the soil water is close to the surface? Peonies do not like stagnant water, but you do not need to refuse to plant them.

You can get out of the situation if you plant the plants quite shallow. The pit is made only 10 cm deep, but larger than usual - about a meter in diameter. Drainage is poured to the bottom, then the substrate (the same as described above). The peony roots are kept for 30 minutes in a clay mash, then the division is placed on top of the substrate and the roots are sprinkled with it. From above, the landing pit is covered with pieces of turf.

What is a standard division

The Delenka is the standard landing unit for peonies. It is a piece of rhizome with 3-5 buds and 2-3 roots. A bush grown from such a delenka begins to bloom luxuriously in the third year, and the first flowers will appear in the second year. Delenki with a smaller number of kidneys are considered non-standard and they have to be grown in school (more on this will be discussed below).

The division of adult bushes requires certain skills. Bushes older than five years form a massive and intricate root system, the intricacies of which can be difficult to understand. When dividing, the rule must be observed: the more buds on the delenka, the more roots should be on it.

How to divide an old peony bush

Examine the bush and select the cut lines, determining with which adventitious roots each part of the rhizome will remain after division. At the same time, you can try to loosen the rhizome with your hands until inflection lines appear - it will be more convenient to cut the bush along such lines. After 1-2 cuts, the situation clears up and even a tangled rhizome can be successfully divided into standard divisions.
The rhizome is cut with a chisel or chisel, tapping on them with a wooden mallet.
Pieces of the rhizome are loosened by hand, separating the intertwined roots.
Delenki are washed from the remnants of the earth, weak, rotten and growing roots are cut out.
The remaining roots are cut with a garden knife, leaving 15 cm from their length. The cuts should be as smooth as possible.
Delenki are pickled for several hours from root rot in a solution of potassium permanganate (2 g per 5 liters). A more concentrated solution will burn the kidneys. Instead of potassium permanganate, you can use a solution of vitriol (50 g per 5 liters), keeping the plant in it for no more than 20 minutes. Exceeding this time leads to burns and death of delenok.
Many people prefer non-chemical disinfection, for which garlic tincture can be used. 200 g of peeled slices are twisted through a meat grinder, poured with a liter of water and insisted for 3 days. The tincture is filtered, stored in the refrigerator in a tight container for no more than three months. To process peonies, add 4 tbsp to a liter of water. tinctures and keep them for half an hour.
After etching, all sections are sprinkled with crushed powder. charcoal or a mixture of coal with colloidal sulfur 1:1.
Planting material is placed in the shade for 24 hours so that a protective cork layer forms on the cuts.
Delenki are dipped into a clay masher, to which a tablet of heteroauxin and a little wood ash is added. The mixture should have a pasty consistency.
The delenki pulled out of the talker are laid out to dry. After that, they can be stored for a long time. In this state, they can be sent by mail. After 5 hours, the rhizomes treated with a talker can be planted in a permanent place or temporarily buried until the pion transplantation begins in the fall.

Growing peonies in school. Small delenki can be grown up for several years in a school where they reach standard sizes. Shkolka is a garden bed with a well-prepared, fertile soil. Segments of rhizomes are planted in a school according to the scheme 20x20 cm, deepening into the soil. The layer of earth above the kidneys should be about 3 cm. For the winter, plantings are covered with compost. After a year or two, they can be planted in a permanent place.

With this method of planting, the kidneys are guaranteed to be at the right depth.

When planting several peonies, they are placed a meter apart from each other. The soil in the first few weeks after planting, while the plants take root, should not be dry. If the weather is dry in August and September, then after a while the peonies need to be watered.

If it is not a landing that is required, but a transplant of a peony to a new place, then it is simply dug up with a clod of earth and transplanted. Such plants take root without problems and bloom normally.

Sometimes the question arises - is it possible to transplant flowering peonies or is it better to wait. The flowering period of peonies is short, the bush blooms for only 2-3 weeks, so you should wait until the end of flowering, and then transplant the plant by digging it along with a clod of earth.

If it was necessary to transplant a young, but already blooming peony, you need to take into account that transplanting to another place will prevent the blooming of new buds and this year the plant will not look as decorative as always.

Typical mistakes when planting peonies

If a peony does not bloom for a long time after planting or develops poorly, then this means that something does not suit him. Here are a few mistakes that gardeners most often make when planting peonies:

Wrong choice of location. Bushes should not be in the growth zone of the roots of large trees or in the shade. They need a minimum of 5 hours of direct light to bloom profusely, ideally early in the day.
Wrong planting depth. Buried bushes need to be lifted and pour the earth under them. If the landing, on the contrary, is too shallow, then the kidneys freeze slightly every year. To rectify the situation, you need to transplant the peony bush deeper, after completely digging it out.
Excessive amount of humus in the planting pit.
Too acidic soil. Peonies prefer earth with a neutral solution reaction and do not develop well in areas with acidic soil.
Too large or small divisions.

Peony transplantation - when is it better to do it, in summer or autumn? If you plant or transplant peonies in August, they will take root and have time to take root well before winter. In due time, they will delight the owner with numerous and large flowers. Peonies planted in September will need an additional year to adapt.

Most favorable time The beginning of autumn is considered to be the year for the separation of peonies. If you do not dig up a bush in September, then transplanting peonies in the spring to another place is also possible. The weather during this period is unpredictable, and you need to act quickly: as soon as the snow melted, and the first sprouts did not appear near the shrub. Repotting a peony spring period more painstaking than in autumn, but with care in handling the plant, it is no less successful.

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Location selection

The process of transplanting peonies begins with site selection and soil preparation. Impressive appearance and the longevity of the bush depend not only on the quality of the source material, but also on the growing conditions. Peonies are able to exist in the chosen place for many years, and it is not recommended to disturb them with unnecessary transplants.

In this case, you must follow simple rules:

1 Choose a place that is open to sunlight and at the same time protected from the wind.
2 You should not place peonies near buildings, trees and shrubs, since air circulation in such places is worse than on open area. The presence of other plants can negatively affect the growth of peonies due to lack of moisture and nutrients.
3 Avoid areas where there are ground water, since the roots of the peony easily rot due to an excess of moisture.

The success of peony growth directly depends on the composition of the soil. The predominance of sand contributes to the fact that with an abundance of foliage, few flowers form. clay soil, on the contrary, is an environment due to which the size of flowers and stems is increased, while the growth of the shrub is slowed down.

Loamy soil is considered preferable, rich in nutrients necessary for optimal plant development, with low acidity for their full assimilation. Therefore, for planting in heavy clay soil, sand is mixed with fertilizers. Clay must be added to sandy soil. Lime can be used to reduce acidity.

Soil preparation

Planting pits should be deep and wide enough for a large root system, about 60 cm in diameter. Bushes should not be placed close to each other, it is best to keep a distance of 100-120 cm, as peonies grow rapidly and can subsequently interfere with neighbors. In addition, crowding will make them difficult to handle, as well as impair air circulation.

Preliminary preparation of the soil, its nutrition significantly improves the growth and development of the plant. First, drainage is filled up in the form of medium-sized pebbles or bricks up to 10 cm thick. The recess is filled with a special nutrient mixture from the topsoil, peat, humus, and also mineral fertilizers- superphosphate, bone meal, blue vitriol. The hole is then filled with plenty of water. Over time, the mixture will begin to settle. Soil should be periodically poured until a mound is formed above each pit about 10 cm high.

It is best to carry out operations to prepare the landing pit in advance, at least a few weeks before the expected time of transplantation.

Preparing a plant for division and transplantation

The stems of bushes intended for transplantation are cut to a level of 10-15 cm. The peony is dug in from all sides with a retreat of 20-25 cm from the stems. In this case, it is better to use a pitchfork, and not a shovel, so the likelihood of damage is less. At spring processing especially fragile roots can easily break off, so you need to be careful.

If the bush is replanted as a whole, it is better not to shake off the ground from the roots so as not to injure them. If the transplant is carried out for the purpose of reproduction and rejuvenation, it is necessary to carefully clean the roots from the ground and rinse with water on a flat surface. After that, it is worth waiting a couple of hours, then the roots will become more plastic and will be preserved during division.

Before cutting, the root is carefully inspected, rotten and broken parts are removed. Damage sites are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate. Root connections are determined in which it is most convenient to divide the bush without harming it. Can be used sharp knife, but the roots perennial plant so thick that it is more convenient to split them by driving a wedge into the middle with a hammer.

From a four-year-old peony bush, up to 7 planting units can be obtained. Each should have 3 to 5 buds and a root 5-10 cm long. With fewer buds, the plant will develop more slowly and require additional care. Also, seedlings should not be made too small or large.

Process technology

After separation, the peonies are located in pre-prepared planting pits. The depth at which seedlings should be placed is determined by the characteristics of the soil. Sandy loam soil involves planting renewal buds to a depth of about 6-7 cm, heavier loamy soil - at least 4-5 cm. In addition, the peony rhizome tends to grow upwards, which should also be taken into account when transferring the plant.

If planted too close to the surface, the chances are high that the roots will be exposed with subsidence of the earth, will suffer from temperature effects (freeze or overheat), as a result of which there is a danger of plant death.

Deep-set buds require too much strength to grow through a thick layer of earth. After moving, the plant is weakened, and therefore growth may stop altogether.

Planting material at the selected depth is covered with earth and compacted to eliminate voids. Tamping should be done carefully, crushing with hands. Then the bush needs to be well watered and sprinkled with earth as it subsides.

In the spring, with all efforts, it is not possible to avoid breaking off the roots due to their fragility. Small processes remain, on which there is no renewal bud. From such roots, you can also grow a full-fledged peony bush. A new bud is formed in a year, and after 3-4 years the peony will give the first flowers. The shoots should be planted horizontally by digging a small trench in the prepared planting hole, since a bud can form anywhere in the root. In the future, care for such plants should be the same as for ordinary seedlings.

Aftercare

Transplanted peonies must be watered in a timely manner, weeded from weeds and fed. different ways: root and extraroot.

Watering is required once every 2 weeks in an amount sufficient to penetrate the entire depth of the roots. In hot weather, moisture should not get on the leaves. The soil is preferably kept loose. The soil should be cultivated very carefully, it is more convenient to do it immediately after watering.

It is important to monitor the emergence of weeds and destroy them. If the bushes are not weeded in time, the weeds will deprive the peonies of most of their nutrition and water and can be the spreaders of diseases.

Within 2 years after transplanting, flowering should not be expected: the plant needs root growth, as a result of which it may look weakened. Over time, the number of stems increases, the bush grows noticeably and acquires a healthy appearance. If the buds are still formed, they should be cut off so as not to weaken the plant. After 3 years after transplantation, flowers can be obtained in the expected size and quantity. Every year the flowering becomes more active.

Cut peony flowers should be no more than a third of the bush, while lower leaves stems must be preserved. At the base of each stem, renewal buds will subsequently form, which will ensure the development and flowering of the bush in subsequent years.

Feeding transplanted flowers

Feeding plants during the first year after transplantation is not required. Provided that the planting pit is well prepared and nourished, the plant will have enough nutrients.

After one year, it is worth applying foliar top dressing. This process is carried out in 3 stages, starting with the appearance of the first sprouts in the spring. Spraying is carried out with an interval of 2 weeks with the following compositions:

first top dressing: a solution of urea at a concentration of 50 g per ten-liter bucket of water;
second top dressing: the solution for the first top dressing is supplemented with 1 tablet of trace elements;
third top dressing: spraying with microelements in the amount of 2 tablets per bucket of water.

After another 1 year, when the first flowering of the peony is expected, additional nutrients cannot be dispensed with. Soil fertilization is carried out with the onset of spring in 3 stages:

1 First top dressing: fertilizer containing nitrogen and potassium is scattered around the bush, 15-20 g each. In this case, substances should be avoided on leaves and stems.
2 The second top dressing is carried out during the formation of buds with a composition of 10 g of nitrogen, 15 g of potassium and 20 g of phosphorus.
3 Third top dressing: a mixture of 15 g of potassium and 20 g of phosphorus is applied after 2 weeks after the shrub has stopped flowering.

In order for fertilizers to penetrate the roots, you should immediately water the peonies and loosen the soil. In hot weather, additional moisture is recommended before top dressing.

Plants planted in spring take root much harder than autumn peonies. But if necessary, moving this crop in the spring is possible if some care is taken and the fact that flowering will have to wait for some time is accepted. With proper care, sufficient watering, the right fertilizer and timely weeding, the plant will certainly take root in a new place and will delight with its magnificent flowers.